Our Travels

Easter Island by Travel Nation's Jonny Goodall

The longest line of Maoi Statues

I finally fulfilled my ambition to reach Easter Island (also known as 'Rapa Nui' or 'Isla de Pascua') in April 2005. This was part of a big backpacking trip I started the previous year, it was great to finally see the huge Maoi statues that I'd read about and experience one of the most isolated places on earth.

The island itself is really small (about 11km wide by 23 km long). We arrived, as most people do on Lan Chile, the Chilean National Airline. At present they are the only carrier to Easter Island, and operate just two flights per week from Tahiti, and 4 from Santiago. We arrived after a month of relaxing and island hopping around Tahiti, and after a pleasant 6 hour flight on Lan (with a fine selection of Chilean wines!) we arrived on Easter Island.

Being the only plane at the airport, this made it a very different and laid back airport experience! About 75 of us got off the plane, the rest stayed on the plane which carried onto Santiago (strangely missing out on the chance of a stopover).

After getting our passports stamped, we were welcomed by the owners of local guesthouses all touting for business, it seems that in recent years as tourism has grown, more and more locals have opened up their homes to visitors. With flight arrivals being their only real source of new customers, the local 'Rapanui' who run most of the accomodation will meet all of the flights in the hope of drumming up some business.

Accomodation on the island ranges from camping and extremely basic rooms (ie, no hot water), to private home stays, guesthouses and a few small hotels (all with hot water). They all tend to include breakfast, and you can pay them in Chilean Pesos or a slightly unfavourable US dollar rate may be offered, credit cards are rarely accepted.

We hadn't organised anything before we arrived, and with plenty of friendly faces to choose from, we plumped for a nice little place called 'Martin y Anitas' . He offered us a great value ensuite room, a lift in his jeep with our backpacks and breakfast all included. Wherever you stay it seems you'll be well located, there is only one real township called 'Hanga Roa' and amenities are all within easy reach. The Island's township has just about everything you need: - a bank, plenty of small eateries, a supermarket, bikes/jeeps for hire, there are Maoi statues dotted about the town, the odd surfer and plenty of Rapanui on horseback!

One thing to mention is that if you're arriving from Papeete, and get by with ATM's for money.. be prepared that there's just one ATM on the island. This ATM doesn't take visa, only mastercard which wasn't much use for my UK debit card! We arrived with no Pesos (local currency) and the bank closes from friday lunchtime until monday. If the bank's open then you can test your Spanish and queue inside, they'll give you a cash advance on your debit/visa card after filling in some forms. However, if you're arriving on a weekend then make sure you have some currency before you arrive, as it's likely to be impossible to get any from the ATM. Pesos are best but US dollars may also be accepted in some places.

Here are some highlights of our travels around the Island..

1. Hire a jeep

We met up with another couple and hired one from a shop in town and shared the cost (can't remember how much but it wasn't expensive), there are plenty of locals willing to hire you a jeep for a day, ours even dropped it off at our guesthouse for us the night before we needed it. The independence of our own wheels was a great way to get out to the Maoi statues which are dotted around the island, but there is also a daily guided minibus tour available if you don't fancy driving.

2. Catch a sunrise

We got up at about 5am one day to catch a once in a lifetime sunrise behind some of the statues. We drove through the dawn mist across the island, the roads are ok, a bit dicey in places but generally pretty good (there are no streetlights once you're out of the township). We found a nice spot and marvelled at a line of statues as the sun came up, definitely worth getting out of bed for! Once you're out of Hanga Roa it's incredibly green, and there are lots of wild horses, there's a real sense of isolation along the rugged coastline and stormy seas. With a very basic map we then explored the island and the quarry (where there are nearly 400 part-finished statues). The Maoi statues are absolutely everywhere, some upright, some fallen, some unfinished, with each having it's own fascinating story or myth..

3. Climb the Volcano (left)

The incredible extinct volcano Rano Kau is not far from Hanga Roa. You can climb on foot via an unmarked trail from the township (about a 2 hour or so walk, worth taking a picnic). Alternatively a taxi will take you near to the top along a track, then it's a nice walk back to Hanga Roa downhill from there. It's spectacular once you're there, and around the Volcano rim you can reach the Orongo archaeological site, its a ceremonial village with it's tiny stone dwellings and rock carvings. This area is central to the local Birdman Cult, a grueling leadership challenge from centuries ago.

4. Anakena Beach

There's also a surprisingly nice beach called 'Anakena' situated across the island near to some well restored statues, great for swimming but reachable only with your own vehicle or by taxi. Again, definitely worth a picnic!

After our stay on Easter Island, our friendly guesthouse kindly dropped us off at the airport for our onward flight to Santiago, it was a hive of activity at the airport as we watched our onward plane land, and see a new set of visitors arrive as we had a few days earlier.

In all we spent 4 nights enjoying the island, this felt about the perfect length of time to see and enjoy everything the island has to offer. Any less would maybe have felt like a rush, but we would have happily stayed a bit longer!! Easter Island was right up there as one of the most amazing places I've been, I absolutely loved it and highly recommend anyone who has the opportunity to make the extra effort, to spend the extra to get there, you certainly won't be dissappointed.

Travel Nation also offer a package that includes 3 nights B+B accommodation, airport transfers, one full day and two half day excursions and National Park entrance fees for £202 per person, based on 2 people sharing a room.